Croatia

Split

Split is forever in my heart.

The old town used to be the palace of a Roman emperor, which is unique in the world. I was sleeping within the stones that had hosted Emperor Diocletian!

The Greeks created the city in the 3rd century BCE. Diocletian was the only Roman Emperor to retire and chose Split to build his palace.

Split was Ottoman and Venetian as well before becoming the Croatian city we know today. Walking down the streets of Split, I was breathing in history.

This town is the perfect mix of history and nature. Accessible from the center of town is Forest Park Marjan. It is attached to Split on one side, and the other three sides surround it with the sea. Courageous hikers will make it to the top, where they will find an observatory. I got lost in the trails many times, finding small churches and grottos and visiting the small zoo. A Botanical garden is also being curated for visitors.

While hiking the beautiful Marjan park - off-trail, my bad - I fell and dislocated my kneecap. Unfortunately, the best apartment I've ever had in Split was on the third floor, which makes things complicated with crutches. It was worth it for that view, though.

I saw a local doctor who told me I needed surgery. He was honest enough to add, "I'm a surgeon, so I am going to tell you to get surgery."

Thank you, but no thank you.

I was lucky enough to have a physical therapist in the family who advised me on a recovery schedule.

This also led me to yoga with Kassandra. I found out about her during the pandemic. At a time when none of us could go to a yoga class, but really needed it.

I especially appreciate the levels of her classes. I started with beginner classes where she gives a lot of explanations and alternatives.

In her intermediate classes, she assumes that you are familiar enough with your yoga practice and focuses a little less on cues and more on breathing.

Her advanced classes are mostly minimal cues, where she calls out the pose only, which allows me to focus on my body and breath.

Yoga saved my knee. I might have gotten unnecessary surgery without it.

I was still able to (carefully) enjoy the clear water and warm beaches that are within walking distance of the city center.

Dubrovnik

I took the bus from Split to Dubrovnik. I was so surprised when we were stopped by border patrol, and half of the bus was asked to step out to be searched.

I was taking a bus from Croatia to Croatia and did not expect to go through Bosnia. A nice Croatian-speaking gentleman pleaded for me to get back on the bus as I was a pitiful sight with my crutches. He told me they were looking for drugs and asking for bribes if they found any.

I have heard that since then, Croatia has built a bridge to get around this problem.

The city of Dubrovnik is a unique place. The old town is the filming location for King's Landing in Game of Thrones and is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The massive walls and clear blue waters really make you feel like you are in Westeros. Not sure that's a good thing, but this is one of those places where you can FEEL history. The limestones streets and Gothic architecture spoke to me.

Supetar

This was the dream. From my first few steps on the island, something was calling me here. I knew I would be happy living here.

I walked along the beach and in the ornate cemetery. It felt as if I had been here before.

The scent of pine and the salt on the breeze were calling me home.

Renting a motorcycle, I went to Pučišća and had breakfast by the port. Then rode across the island to Bol and the beach of Zlatni rat. This beach is quite exceptional, jutting as it does into the sea, offering a 180 sea experience. The beach offers a wooded area full of bars and food vendors. I finished the day in Milna for sunset. I was hooked.

I even purchased a piece of land, thinking of building a home that would also be a retreat space and artist residency.

It was a beautiful dream while it lasted. Before my life took a different turn.